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Day 4, February 15, 2020: Going Walkabout (Mostly), in Baracoa

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“The famous cross was planted by Columbus at the mouth of a cove ‘on some rough stones,’ according to …Bartolomé de las Casas. What we know of the next five-hundred years at that site can be attributed to fact, speculation, inference, oral accounts, likelihood, supposition, logic, or the sort of retro-history that has anointed the mojito at La Bodeguita del Medio (in Havana) as Hemingway’s favorite.” —Tom Miller, “Trading With The Enemy” El Yunque February mornings in Baracoa are balmy. On two days there it rained in the wee hours, and we awoke to a mix of clouds, shadow and sun, and puddles. There was in-house “desayuno,” at each individual casa particular. We (Faith, Viviana, Dave, MJ), guests of Onoria, ascended to the top floor deck, for al fresco scrambled eggs, bacon, fresh-squeezed juice, sliced tropical fruits, cheeses and bread, and coffee. There was also the famous Baracoan chocolate , a richer version of our hot chocolate. From this spot we'd chat, watch the sun i