Day 2, February 13, 2020: Gibara

Hotel Ordoño (photo credit cubaism.com)

Hotel Ordoño is a historic structure. It was a colonial mansion, home to a merchant family in this mercantile port town. Gibara was economically vibrant until it was eclipsed by towns better situated along the new-fangled railroad. Refurbishing happened within the last decade, to create a Spanish-owned fine hotel. It is said to be the tallest building in Gibara. Air conditioning makes for a very comfortable night, even if, like in Spain, a double bed is often two singles pushed together.

(photo credit hotels.com)

There was no need for an alarm or wake-up call. Street activity began around 5 am, two stories down. Bright morning fills the expansive, mostly open-air lobby. Even early, there was a crowd in the street in front. When we arrived the afternoon before, folks were there as well, but the cluster evaporated about dusk. These were people grouped in the doorway of a grocery store, and strung back down the street. They had lined up to get their ration of chicken, quantities of which are controlled although guaranteed if one waits their turn, which may come today, tomorrow or the next day.



Hotel breakfast buffets in Cuba are interchangeable with those of Spain: lots of ham and other indistinguishable fatty processed meats, scrambled and boiled eggs, fruits (pineapple, papaya, banana), tropical juices, many cheeses, bread slices and various slightly sweet pastries, coffee.

Catty-corner from the hotel sat a mendicant. Officially, begging and prostitution do not exist in Cuba. Technically, they clearly do. Indeed, these two ancient professions were much more visible to us than in Havana 6 years ago. Also newer is the patronage of Cuban citizens in the hotel restaurants and bars. Young escorts and their older European customers are occasionally circulating indoors, and not just on the outdoor patios as before.

We came to recognize this fellow. He'd appear at several of our bus stops in Gibara. We conclude that the tour bus routes are predictable.

This day was an excursion around and through Gibara. We stopped first at a government-owned tobacco factory, where workers roll some brands of the famous hand-made Cuban cigars. Tobacco sorting and processing are done elsewhere. A similar tour in Pinar del Río in 2013 had been unrestricted, with photos, videos and engagement of the employees permitted. That, however, was a processing factory. This time we left cameras, bags and purses outside, and photography was prohibited. In this rolling factory, many of the workers are men (all women at Pinar del Río), and a the government has implemented a productivity system. Workers are paid by volume, for the numbers of cigars which they make, minus those thrown out for failing quality controls (repurposed for cigarettes). Overtime is permitted, which enhances income for some. The workers, while friendly enough to us intruders, still were focussed and working as fast as they could without sacrificing quality or being overtly rude.

This is the facility we visited. Of note, more recent photos that we've seen show about half the number of workers, and social distancing for Covid-19 (photo credit to Cindy Wilson Photography)

Back aboard the bus, we climbed the hill above town, past the ruins of Fuerte de Cuartelón, a Spanish fort from the early 1800’s. The fort intended protection of the town from pirates, but was never finished. The summit has a spectacular vista of town and bay. This spot is well-attended by curio entrepreneurs, offering various trinkets including wooden turtles and birds, castanets, and other touristy “articulos.” Curious neighbors also come out to inspect the going-on.

Bahía de Gibara. The pinkish building at 9 o'clock is Hotel Ordoño. Across, the anvil-shaped mountain is Silla de Gibara. The journals of Christopher Columbus show that he came to this locale in 1492. Eventually he planted a cross "in view of" a mountain/landmark of this shape. The thing is, there is another one at Baracoa (Days 3-5). For centuries, the two cities have disputed which can claim Columbus's landing and planting of the cross. Latest research favors Baracoa (at least, according the the Baracoa town historian).

Guard post and old city wall of Gibara, blended with structures of today. The wall was 2+ km long. Some remnants are near to downtown. History records that the defensive wall was painted white, as were the buildings within, lending Gibara the sobriquet La Villa Blanca.

Gambling is illegal in Cuba. Cockfighting is not illegal in Cuba. All bets are off? 

From there, motoring back down the hill into town, to spend the day. Gibara is alive and full of people, and there's a lot happening, needs only a walkabout. We were shepherded by the town historian of Gibara. That was great.

A Russian motorcycle, painted with a humorous variation of the Rolling Stones emblem.

A fun cooperative naive art gallery features everything from artists' clothing to homemade license plates. These women are crochet artists.

End of lunch/recess.

Greg and Kevin at Parque Calixto García.

The Museum of Decorative Arts is actually an old aristocratic home. There's a story here worth sharing. The home is restored, and the rooms contain period furniture from much of Cuba's history. The source for these items? The abandonment of wealthy homes and estates after the Revolution. The aristocrats' anticipated return did not happen. The government confiscated valuable household items for preservation in museums. A little known fact: The Castro government allowed anyone who did not flee to remain in their homes. But they quickly went after the properties left unoccupied.

San Fulgencio church in Parque Calixto García.

Modeled on "Liberty"

This is a species of African oak, known locally in Gibara as a "sausage tree."

Cine Jiba (the root word for Gibara) is famous for its display of historic movie posters. The caretaker there was friendly and opened the theater so we could see the interior. There is great local pride in this facility.

Lunch was at Restaurante La Perla del Norte. These two, Ysrael and José, played us in, played us through the meal, and played us out. They are two members of a long-standing local group, Unico Gibara.

Entrada: https://youtu.be/PjG9JCXINnE

Across from La Perla is another cooperative gallery. This young artist presented a documentary movie about the annual Gibara Film Festival.

Just down the street from La Perla, MJ met a woman from Canada. She and her partner live 4 months a year in Gibara. Their casa particular is elegant for sure, and radically funky at the same time.

MJ surreptitiously photographed another well-kept interior while walking back to the hotel

In late afternoon Dave indulged in relaxed conversation in the hotel lobby with Stuart and Janis, savoring glasses of Ron Havana Club 7 Year Añejo. MJ explored the streets of the neighborhood. Lobby staff sidled over to check out Dave’s pair of unmatched (literally) US Flag socks. They had some interest in acquisition, but those socks are treasured and not for transaction.

Dinner was out a ways in the boonies, up a caliche road in a dark and peaceful residential area called El Güirito. La Cueva Taína serves local fare, conceived as indigenous Taíno preparations. That means mariscos and fish, rice with beans, plantain, fresh salad. Oh, and, fabulous flan. Husband and wife proprietors Jorge and Josefa own this paladar. They cook using herbs and other seasonings which they grow themselves on site. It is a beautiful, appealing locale, and they are congenial people, with whom Peggy exchanged gifts to the delight of all. The staff initiated our repast by sharing mojitos made from scratch in our presence.

La Cueva Taína